Barebow Resources
Most information provided by the "Reference Guide for Recurve Archers".Download to full article can be found at: http://www.archersreference.co.uk/archref_05.pdf
[Murray, Elliot, editor. Reference guide for Recurve archers. 5th ed., 2002.]
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Introduction:
The "Barebow" setup (as pictured above) commonly consists of a take-down bow or one piece recurve bow with no sights nor stabilizers. Weights may be added to help balance the bow at the archer's discretion. This setup works for archers who want more of a traditional feel, relying more on instinct and pure skill rather than on equipment.
Included Barebow Sections:
- Section 1: Equipment
- Section 2: World Archery Regulations for Barebow Archers
- Section 3: Shooting Form and Techniques
*For specific information, use the [Ctrl + F] function on your keyboard and search common archery phrases (i.g. "instinctive shooting", "Kevlar strings", "Aim and Expand", etc.) to find information regarding your desired topic.
Section 1: Equipment
Fitting Yourself With A Bow:
Recurve bow setups will range in length from around 48 inches to 72 inches, which most target and college club bows averaging around 66-68 inches. The following guide provides estimates of how long your bow should be:
Draw Length: Bow Length:
>27 in. 64 in.
24-29 in. 66 in.
27-31 in. 68 in.
29+ in. 70 in.
When buying your bow setup, pay close attention to the size options of the riser and the limbs if you're buying a take-down setup. Unlike one-piece bows, you will have to calculate the length of the riser and the length of the bow limbs to make sure the whole setup is the length you require. For a majority of bow manufacturers, they follow this guide:
Riser Length: "Short Limbs" "Medium Limbs" "Long Limbs":
(Short) 23 in. 64 in. 66 in. 68 in.
(Long) 25 in. 66 in. 68 in. 70 in.
Additionally, your choice of riser and limb length impacts your performance. Be sure to find a good balance that works for you.
Long risers with short limbs = Faster, tendency to stack, less stable
Short risers with long limbs = Slower, less stacking, more stable
Selecting A Riser:
Cast Risers:
Cast risers are very common and are usually on the cheaper end of the market. They are made using a mix of aluminum and magnesium and are popular with low to mid range bow types.
Forged Risers:
Forged risers start off as bars of material that are hammered into shape under high temperature and pressure. There risers are very strong due to the process and tend to be on the more expensive side.
CNC Machined Risers:
Hand machined risers are made using a computer controlled method, machined until they weight around three pounds in weight. These risers are on the expensive side but are strong and lightweight, in comparison to cast and forged risers.
Selecting Limbs:
Limbs come in different materials, lengths and draw weights to suit archers of different sizes, shapes, and preferences. Getting the correct-size limbs can reduce the effects of stacking, making it easier to hold the string longer, and getting limbs with heavier draw weights can allow the archer to reach longer shooting distances. Additionally, different limbs have difference purposes (ex. limbs made for hunting bows can be much shorter than limbs made for target shooting) so ensure proper research is done so the limbs fit the archer and the primary purpose of the bow.
Materials:
Laminated Wood & Fiberglass Limbs
These limbs perform well in stable climates with constant temperature and humidity. These types are prone to stretching and warping when the climate varies significantly.
Laminated Wood & Fiberglass & Carbon Fiber Layers
The additional layers of carbon fiber help strengthen the limbs and reduce the tendency to twist and warp.
Carbon Fiber Limbs/Foam Core Limbs
Modern carbon/foam limbs are highly impervious to climatic changes, and are therefore the most consistent. They also resist twisting to a much higher degree, especially at the limb tips where they are weakest.
Selecting Strings:
String Loops = Fits over the ends of the limbs to secure string to bow setup. The top loop of the string will be larger than the bottom loop so it can slip over the limb when de-strung.
Center Serving = Thread wrapped around the center of the string where fingers are placed.
Nocking Point = Position where the arrow is nocked to the string. Can be indicated with metal beads or a small piece of thread to maintain consistency.
String Wax = Wax applied regularly to the string to keep it in good shape.
Materials:
Dacron Strings
Dacron is long-lasting and it is slow. The slow speed is due to the excessive stretch on each shot. The stretching process removes energy which would otherwise be used to propel the arrow. The stretching does have the advantage that it is kinder to the bow limbs and riser and therefore is ideal for bows with wooden risers or limbs.
Kevlar Strings
Kevlar has a tendency to shear easily, resulting in frequently broken strings (usually just below the nocking point). Kevlar is also susceptible to moisture and so must be waxed carefully.
Spectra/Dyneema Strings
Spectra fibre is very long lasting and can last more than 100,000 shots. It is not susceptible to moisture and can be twisted as much as required. These are the lightest and fastest of the materials available.
Selecting Strings:
String Loops = Fits over the ends of the limbs to secure string to bow setup. The top loop of the string will be larger than the bottom loop so it can slip over the limb when de-strung.
Center Serving = Thread wrapped around the center of the string where fingers are placed.
Nocking Point = Position where the arrow is nocked to the string. Can be indicated with metal beads or a small piece of thread to maintain consistency.
String Wax = Wax applied regularly to the string to keep it in good shape.
Materials:
Dacron Strings
Dacron is long-lasting and it is slow. The slow speed is due to the excessive stretch on each shot. The stretching process removes energy which would otherwise be used to propel the arrow. The stretching does have the advantage that it is kinder to the bow limbs and riser and therefore is ideal for bows with wooden risers or limbs.
Kevlar Strings
Kevlar has a tendency to shear easily, resulting in frequently broken strings (usually just below the nocking point). Kevlar is also susceptible to moisture and so must be waxed carefully.
Spectra/Dyneema Strings
Spectra fibre is very long lasting and can last more than 100,000 shots. It is not susceptible to moisture and can be twisted as much as required. These are the lightest and fastest of the materials available.
Angel Dyneema Strings
Angel Dyneema is the choice of many top archers because of its quality, consistency and smooth-feeling shooting characteristics. It is also a little lighter than an equivalent string made from other materials because it has no wax (even though the label says it is waxed).
Dynaflight Strings
This kind of material is best suited for the compound bow, where creep is an issue for buss cables. The material is very stable and comes with a light wax content.
Fastflight Strings
This bowstring is the choice for a large percentage of archers. It lasts almost indefinitely, with proper care, and has a little stretch. This often comes heavily waxed and the first job is often to remove some of the wax to prevent wax loss during shooting from affecting the tune too much.
Brace Height:
The brace height is the distance from the string to the bow, starting at a 90 degree angle from the deepest point in the grip.
Bow Length: Brace Height:
64 inches 7.75 - 9 inches
66 inches 8 - 9.25 inches
68 inches 8.25 - 9.5 inches
70 inches 8.50 - 9.75 inches
String Length:
The string should be around inches shorter than the AMO length of the bow. (AMO refers to the total length of the bow.) When buying a string, an "AMO 66 String" (for example) will properly fit an "AMO 66 inch bow", however the actual string itself will be around 63 inches in length.
Over time, the string may stretch or the archer will want the string to be slightly longer/shorter. The string may be slightly twisted or untwisted to take/give the extra length, however different types of string can only handle so much twisting/untwisting before problems occur.
Selecting Arrows:
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Glass Fiber
These arrows will be much heavier and are only good for training/beginner purposes.
Wood
These arrows are popular for traditional archers, less useful or ideal for competitions.
Aluminum
These arrows are cheap and are popular for indoor competitions. They tend to be heavy but can be easily straightened whenever they become bent. Since these tend to be wider, they are more favorable at indoor competitions as they have a better chance of breaking the line on a target.
Carbon
There are pure carbon then hybrid carbon-aluminum arrows available. These arrows are more on the expensive side and are lighter and faster than other arrow types. These arrows will tend to shatter rather than bend, resulting in the complete destruction of the arrow. Since these are light arrows, they travel farther for outdoor competitions, but are more susceptible to cross winds, pushing them off target.
Section 2: World Archery Regulations
Section 3: Shooting Form and Techniques
The following information is taken from: Book 4, Chapter 22, Section 22.3: "Barebow Division", and can be found on the World Archery website at: https://worldarchery.org/Rules. Minor changes have been made for clarity.
For the Barebow Division the following items are permitted:
22.3.1. A bow of any type provided it complies with the common meaning of the word bow as used in target archery, that is, an instrument consisting of a handle/riser and grip (no shoot-through type) and two flexible limbs each ending in a tip with a string nock. The bow is braced for use by a single string attached directly between the two string nocks, and in operation is held in one hand by its grip while the fingers of the other hand draw and release the string. The bow as described above shall be bare except for the arrow rest and free from protrusions, sights or sight marks, marks or blemishes or laminated pieces (within the bow window area) which could be of use in aiming. The unbraced bow complete with permitted accessories shall be capable of passing through a hole or ring with a 12.2 cm inside diameter +/-0.5 mm.
22.3.1.1. Multi-colored bow risers, and trademarks located on the inside of the upper and lower limb or on the riser are permitted. However if the area within the sight window is colored in such a way that it could be used for aiming, then it must be taped over.
22.3.1.2. Risers including a brace are permitted provided the brace does not consistently touch the athlete’s hand or wrist.
22.3.2. A bowstring of any number of strands.
22.3.2.1. Which may be of multi-colored strands and serving and of the material chosen for the purpose. It may have a center serving to accommodate the drawing fingers, one or two nocking points to which may be added serving(s) to fit the arrow nock as necessary, and to locate the nocking points. No lip or nose mark is permitted. The bowstring shall not in any way assist aiming through the use of a peephole, marking, or any other means.
22.3.3. An arrow rest, which may be adjustable and have more than one vertical support is permitted.
22.3.3.1. An adjustable pressure button, pressure point or arrow plate may all be used on the bow provided they do not offer any additional aid in aiming. The pressure point may be placed no further back than 2 cm (inside) from the pivot point of the grip.
22.3.4. No draw check device may be used.
22.3.5. Face and string walking are permitted.
22.3.6. No stabilizers are permitted.
22.3.6.1. Vibration dampeners fitted as part of the bow are permitted provided that they do not have stabilizers.
22.3.6.2. Weight(s) may be added to the lower part of the riser. All weights, regardless of shape, shall mount directly to the riser without rods, extensions, angular mounting connections or shock-absorbing devices.
22.3.7. Arrows of any type may be used provided they subscribe to the accepted principle and meaning of the word arrow as used in target archery, and that these arrows do not cause undue damage to the targets.
22.3.7.1. An arrow consists of a shaft with a tip (point), nocks, fletching and, if desired, cresting. The maximum diameter of arrow shafts shall not exceed 9.3 mm (arrow wraps shall not be considered as part of this limitation but may not extend further than 22 cm toward the arrow point when measured from the nock groove where the bowstring sits to the end of the wrap). The tips/points of the arrows may not exceed 9.4 mm in diameter. All arrows of every athlete shall be marked with the athlete's name or initials on the shaft. All arrows used in any end shall be identical in appearance and shall carry the same pattern and color(s) of fletching, nocks and cresting, if any. Tracer nocks (electrically/electronically lighted nocks) are not allowed.
22.3.8. Finger protection in the form of finger stalls or tips, gloves, or shooting tab or tape, to draw and release the string is permitted, provided they do not incorporate any device that shall assist the athlete to hold, draw and release the string.
22.3.8.1. A separator between the fingers to prevent pinching the arrow may be used. An anchor plate or similar device attached to the finger protection (tab) for the purpose of anchoring is permitted. The stitching shall be uniform in size and colour. Marks or lines may be added directly to the tab or on a tape placed on the face of the tab. These marks shall be uniform in size, shape and color. Additional memoranda is not permitted. On the bow hand an ordinary glove, mitten or similar item may be worn but shall not be attached to the grip of the bow.
22.3.9. Binoculars, scopes and other visual aids for spotting arrows:
22.3.9.1. Provided they are not used for ranging or represent any obstruction to other athletes.
22.3.9.2. Prescription glasses, shooting spectacles and sunglasses may be used. None of these may be fitted with micro hole lenses, or similar devices, nor may they be marked in any way to assist in aiming.
22.3.9.3. Should the athlete need to cover the non-sighting eye and or glasses lens, plastic, film or tape may be used to obscure vision, or an eye patch may be used.
22.3.10. Accessories are permitted:
22.3.10.1. Including arm guard, chest protector, bow sling, finger sling, belt, back, hip or ground-quiver. Devices to raise a foot or part thereof, attached or independent of the shoe, are permitted provided that the devices do not present an obstruction to other athletes at the shooting line/peg or protrude more than 2 cm past the footprint of the shoe. Also permitted are limb dampeners.
Section 3: Shooting Form and Techniques
National Training System (N.T.S.) Archery:
"The American Style"
There are 10-12 major steps that N.T.S. focuses on (depending who you ask), and this form of archery is predominantly used by U.S.A.A. Instructors. This will focus on the 10 step method. A more in-depth description of this form that includes the 12-step method can be found on the KSL International Archery website here: http://www.kslinternationalarchery.com/Technique/KSLShotCycle/KSLShotCycle-USA.html
*The following NTS step descriptions are a summary of the above link, with additional editing from U.C. Merced Archery Team Instructors. The short poem attached to the step subtitles is by U.C. Berkeley Coach Dennis L. and is commonly taught to instructors in training. These steps are identical to the recurve shot process, with minor adjustments to cater to some barebow techniques and styles.
*The following NTS step descriptions are a summary of the above link, with additional editing from U.C. Merced Archery Team Instructors. The short poem attached to the step subtitles is by U.C. Berkeley Coach Dennis L. and is commonly taught to instructors in training. These steps are identical to the recurve shot process, with minor adjustments to cater to some barebow techniques and styles.
Steps:
1) Stance: ''A proper STANCE is how it's begun...''
The archer should create a straight line between them and the center of the target. They should begin by placing both feet on that imaginary line shoulder width apart. The back foot (farthest from the target) should be moved forward a little bit by a few inches to create an "open" stance. Rotate the front foot by a few degrees towards the target on the heels, and hips should be slightly open to the target. The archer should have good posture, and can imagine "squishing a dime between the rear cheeks and crushing an orange with your core". Finally, the archer's knees can be slightly rotated outwards in order to "lock them in place", to reduce movement through the shot process.
2) Nock: ''NOCK the arrow in front of you...''
Place the arrow on the string, under the nocking point. With the index fletching facing the archer.
3) Hook/Grip & Set: ''SET the hand to the proper degree...''
Depending on the archer's preference, the fingers can be placed in two different ways for barebow. The first way is called "split-finger method", which is primarily used by recurve archers, but can be adapted to barebow. For this method, place the index finger on the draw hand above the nocked arrow, and place the middle and ring finger below the arrow. The string should rest behind the first joint of the fingers. The second way is called "three fingers under", and is preferred by most barebow archers. For this method, all fingers are placed under the nocked arrow, and the string is placed the same way. This method allows for techniques like string walking and face walking, which barebow archers use to help aiming without a sight.
The bow hand should be positioned so that the thumb is pointing at the target once the bow is raised up fully. The grip should be fairly relaxed, and the use of a finger sling will help keep the bow from falling out of the hand after the shoot is done. The thumb and index finger should do most of the "gripping" of the riser, while the other fingers should be free and be at a downward angle from the bow. Ensure that the grip is comfortable and consistent for all shots before drawing the bow back.
To get in the "set" position, the archer holds the bow up a little and places a little tension on the string without pulling it back. Calm, steady breaths should be made. This position is where the archer should be before drawing the bow back, and should be when the archer readies both the body and mind for the shot.
4) Set Up: ''SET-UP some more, to peek through the 'door'...''
With about 60-70% of body weight on the balls of the feet, and about 30-40% on the heels, the archer will keep their hips open and the shoulders should be inline with the center of the target. The archer's sternum should be tucked in and abdominal muscles should be tightened. The hips should be rotated forward to squeeze the buttocks together slightly. (A common phrase among Californian U.S.A.A. instructors is to "imagine an orange on your abs and you want to crush it with your abs, and there's a dime in your a** and you want to squeeze it out"...) This should be done while the archer slowly raises the bow up to the proper level.
The string should not be "forcibly" drawn back, but in this process, the positioning of the shoulder and scapulae will bring it naturally back as you set up. This is sometimes called the "pre draw".
4) Set Up: ''SET-UP some more, to peek through the 'door'...''
With about 60-70% of body weight on the balls of the feet, and about 30-40% on the heels, the archer will keep their hips open and the shoulders should be inline with the center of the target. The archer's sternum should be tucked in and abdominal muscles should be tightened. The hips should be rotated forward to squeeze the buttocks together slightly. (A common phrase among Californian U.S.A.A. instructors is to "imagine an orange on your abs and you want to crush it with your abs, and there's a dime in your a** and you want to squeeze it out"...) This should be done while the archer slowly raises the bow up to the proper level.
The string should not be "forcibly" drawn back, but in this process, the positioning of the shoulder and scapulae will bring it naturally back as you set up. This is sometimes called the "pre draw".
5) Draw and Load: ''DRAW and LOAD, the back is alive...''
The string is drawn straight back to about 2-3 inches below the anchor point after setting up. Fingers of the draw hand and draw forearm should have a minimum amount of tension. They must be as relaxed as possible. The bow must remain above the horizontal center line of the target during the draw stage starting from the set up phase to reduce the amount of tension in the bow arm. Ensure that the archer does not naturally lean back to counter the weight of the bow and that they maintain good posture. It is recommended to inhale while drawing back to create the natural feeling of "gaining strength".
6) Anchor: ''All is aligned when the ANCHOR is fixed...''
Once at full draw, the arm and the hand come up to the anchor point as one unit. For barebow archers, the two most common anchor points are below the chin (similar to a recurve bow anchor), where the hand rests right under the jaw bone, and touching your mouth, where the index or middle finger of the draw hand is touching either the corner of the mouth where the lips meet, or a specific tooth, which is slightly more consistent. (For right handed archers, the anchor should be on the right side of the face, and the left side for left handed archers.) For archers using the three fingers under method, a constant anchor point on the mouth is recommended to assist with string walking. The archer should try to find a good anchor point that aligns the bow string with the center of the archer's aiming eye. (The aiming eye matches the hand that the archer is using to draw the bow.)
The archer's elbow should appear ''in-line'' with the arrow when viewed from the side in terms of height. This is crucial for the transfer and hold stage. The elbow should also appear in-line with the arrow when viewed from the top, or slightly behind that line. From a front view, the elbow should ''disappear'' behind the archer's head.
7) Transfer and Holding: ''TRANSFER and HOLD, the body's in heaven(?)...''
It is important to ensure that the archer is not yet focused on aiming until after this step. In this process, some of the draw load and tension in the draw hand, forearm, and bow hand, is transferred to the lower back muscles. This should take no longer than about half a second.
Once the critical holding position is reached, all focus should be on the back muscles. The scapulae is rotated down and more towards the spine, squeezing down as the body enters the aim and expansion phase. The deep, relaxed breath taken in during the draw is slowly exhaled until the lungs are somewhere between 70%-50% capacity, allowing the arrow to naturally settle in line with the target. From this point until the shot is complete, the breath must now be held. If the breath is held for too long after this stage, the archer should slowly ease the bow back down and prepare for another shot attempt.
Note that the idea of a "continuous external movement'' is flawed.
8) Aim and Expand: ''AIM and EXPAND to make it fly straight..."
Ideally, the archer should not take more than three seconds to make it from the holding to the release phase. All of the archer's focus should not divert to aiming and should still concentrate on proper technique. Aiming should be done more ''sub-consciously'' than consciously.
The expansion phase involves the draw arm scapula going down further and rotating inwards, towards the spine. This opens up the chest in a circular movement. This is especially useful when using a clicker (primarily for recurve archers) as it draws the arrow back further by a few millimeters. Expansion is more of a big circular movement that, ''involves the scapulae to back bone (small movement); the chest bones connecting with the chest joint (bigger movement) and the draw and bow arms (biggest movement)''. This is referred to as the "Ratio of Circular Movement". This expansion should go "both ways", meaning that there should be no apparent indication of the string moving. The bow hand should be relaxed and focus should still completely remain on mainly expansion and slightly less on aiming.
8.1 Instinctive Shooting:
For barebow archers, the lack of sight means aiming comes more naturally and instinctive. Some archers rely solely on feel and instinct to aim their bow, where it becomes more like throwing a ball or a dart to a small target. This takes a lot of practice and skill to use this style and is usually not as consistent as other styles. This can be done using any anchor point and draw hand positioning of the archer's choosing, as long as it is consistent for each shot. The archer should focus on the target rather than the arrow, and allow their body to naturally make the slight adjustments needed to bring each shot closer to the target. If accomplished correctly, muscle memory should automatically bring the bow where it needs to go depending on the distance between the archer and the target.
8.2 String Walking:
Another technique that barebow archers use to aim is called "string walking'', where the fingers of the draw hand are moved up and down the string depending on the calculated distance between the archer and the target. If done properly, the archer always uses the tip of the arrow to aim by putting it dead center on the target, and the hand is moved up and down the string, depending on the distance, to change the angle of the bow.
To do this, the archer first must be using the three fingers under technique, and a special barebow finger tab or a shooting glove is recommended. The archer then calculates the distance between them and the target (if the distance is not already known) and moves their hand up or down the string, depending on the distance. This changes the actual angle that the bow is tilted, and puts more strain on the lower limb. Ensure that the bow is capable of withstanding this offset from a regular draw and if possible, adjust the tiller accordingly. The closer the target is, then the lower the hand should be on the string. A good way to keep consistency is to count the number of strands on the center serving that are between the top finger on the string and the bottom of the arrow nock and to remember the number of strands that should separate the finger and nock at different distances. (Ex: If a target is 10m away, there may be 15 strands between the top finger and the arrow nock. If a target is 15m away, there may be 10 strands between the top finger and the arrow nock with the same equipment and consistent shot cycle.)
The archer should take multiple shots and use tight groupings on the target to determine how much they move up and down the string. The hand should be in the desired position on the string at the set phase, before bringing the bow up and drawing it back. Next, the anchor point should be a consistent place near the mouth, usually touching the archer's ''K-9'' tooth. The string should be perfectly centered in front of the archer's eye when fully drawn back. Finally, the tip of the arrow should be in line with the string, and should be centered on the target regardless of the distance, as the different hand positions compensate.
9) Release: "Release with no mind, the arrow is fine..."
To release the string, the archer should totally relax the fingers of their draw hand, allowing the string to smoothly flow out of the fingers. Rather than the archer physically opening their fingers, the string should be allowed to push the fingers out of the way on its own, ideally leaving the fingers in virtually the same place after the release. For archers without a clicker, the release should happen when a mental signal of "readiness" is achieved. In other words, the archer must feel when it is time to release rather than actively focusing on the release.
For traditional archers, a common mental image is to imagine the timing of the release as
''ripe fruit dropping from the vine - when it is ready it just releases''.
10) Follow Through: ''Follow through, then admire your ten...''
This step can be described as a continuation of the release rather than a separate step. After the release, back tension needs to be controlled for a few moments. The follow through should be a natural reaction to releasing the arrow rather than a forced movement, and it is recommended to have a nice, long flowing release rather than a short one. The movement should be completely natural and not exaggerated.
The draw hand will be very relaxed and run alongside the face as the arm naturally moves behind the archer. The archer should visualize the bow moving straight at target, still pointing directly at the center to ensure that the arrow's flight is not disturbed on its way out of the riser. It is natural for the bow to move slightly left (for right handed archers) or right (for left handed archers), due to rotational expansion.
- - - - -
Notes:
- When figuring out aiming it is important to maintain consistency between shots to create tight groupings. Especially for barebow archers, who do not use sights, it is important that the archer creates tight groupings, regardless of where on the target at first, before changing reference points for aiming. For example, if an archer shoots one arrow that is off center, it is unsure whether that arrow was off due to the wind, technique issues, or a bad reference point. If an archer shoots multiple arrows in the same area, then it is safer to assume that the only change required is a different reference point, which can be easily changed.
- KSL (NTS) training states that the archer must take responsibility for every shot they take, regardless of most outside factors. Distractions such as loud noises from spectators, actions of other archers, cameras, cell phones, etc. should not negatively affect the archer if proper focus is being achieved. Uncontrollable factors like wind speed and direction and distance should also not affect the shot too much and should be addressed if it troubles an archer too much.
- Breathing is important during the shot cycle and NTS has a method of doing it properly:
1) A deep diaphragmatic settling breath should be taken prior to raising the bow.
2) With the focus on the target a normal breath, using diaphragmatic breathing, is taken between Raising the Bow and Set-Up. This not only has a settling effect, but will also lower the center of gravity. Further, it will help the archer to increase their focus and aids in not rushing the draw.
3) Whilst drawing from Set-Up inhale as part of the drawing rhythm, which will create a natural feeling of gaining strength.
4) From the beginning of the Loading/Transfer to the Holding phase, when aiming should commence, approximately 30-50%the breath should be let out slowly and naturally, allowing the sight to naturally settle in the aiming area.
5) From this point the breath must be held till after the release and let out naturally during the follow-through.
- NTS steps for barebow, recurve, and compound are all similar, with only minor adjustments like grip and anchor points to cater to the specific style.
The string is drawn straight back to about 2-3 inches below the anchor point after setting up. Fingers of the draw hand and draw forearm should have a minimum amount of tension. They must be as relaxed as possible. The bow must remain above the horizontal center line of the target during the draw stage starting from the set up phase to reduce the amount of tension in the bow arm. Ensure that the archer does not naturally lean back to counter the weight of the bow and that they maintain good posture. It is recommended to inhale while drawing back to create the natural feeling of "gaining strength".
6) Anchor: ''All is aligned when the ANCHOR is fixed...''
Once at full draw, the arm and the hand come up to the anchor point as one unit. For barebow archers, the two most common anchor points are below the chin (similar to a recurve bow anchor), where the hand rests right under the jaw bone, and touching your mouth, where the index or middle finger of the draw hand is touching either the corner of the mouth where the lips meet, or a specific tooth, which is slightly more consistent. (For right handed archers, the anchor should be on the right side of the face, and the left side for left handed archers.) For archers using the three fingers under method, a constant anchor point on the mouth is recommended to assist with string walking. The archer should try to find a good anchor point that aligns the bow string with the center of the archer's aiming eye. (The aiming eye matches the hand that the archer is using to draw the bow.)
The archer's elbow should appear ''in-line'' with the arrow when viewed from the side in terms of height. This is crucial for the transfer and hold stage. The elbow should also appear in-line with the arrow when viewed from the top, or slightly behind that line. From a front view, the elbow should ''disappear'' behind the archer's head.
7) Transfer and Holding: ''TRANSFER and HOLD, the body's in heaven(?)...''
It is important to ensure that the archer is not yet focused on aiming until after this step. In this process, some of the draw load and tension in the draw hand, forearm, and bow hand, is transferred to the lower back muscles. This should take no longer than about half a second.
Once the critical holding position is reached, all focus should be on the back muscles. The scapulae is rotated down and more towards the spine, squeezing down as the body enters the aim and expansion phase. The deep, relaxed breath taken in during the draw is slowly exhaled until the lungs are somewhere between 70%-50% capacity, allowing the arrow to naturally settle in line with the target. From this point until the shot is complete, the breath must now be held. If the breath is held for too long after this stage, the archer should slowly ease the bow back down and prepare for another shot attempt.
Note that the idea of a "continuous external movement'' is flawed.
8) Aim and Expand: ''AIM and EXPAND to make it fly straight..."
Ideally, the archer should not take more than three seconds to make it from the holding to the release phase. All of the archer's focus should not divert to aiming and should still concentrate on proper technique. Aiming should be done more ''sub-consciously'' than consciously.
The expansion phase involves the draw arm scapula going down further and rotating inwards, towards the spine. This opens up the chest in a circular movement. This is especially useful when using a clicker (primarily for recurve archers) as it draws the arrow back further by a few millimeters. Expansion is more of a big circular movement that, ''involves the scapulae to back bone (small movement); the chest bones connecting with the chest joint (bigger movement) and the draw and bow arms (biggest movement)''. This is referred to as the "Ratio of Circular Movement". This expansion should go "both ways", meaning that there should be no apparent indication of the string moving. The bow hand should be relaxed and focus should still completely remain on mainly expansion and slightly less on aiming.
8.1 Instinctive Shooting:
For barebow archers, the lack of sight means aiming comes more naturally and instinctive. Some archers rely solely on feel and instinct to aim their bow, where it becomes more like throwing a ball or a dart to a small target. This takes a lot of practice and skill to use this style and is usually not as consistent as other styles. This can be done using any anchor point and draw hand positioning of the archer's choosing, as long as it is consistent for each shot. The archer should focus on the target rather than the arrow, and allow their body to naturally make the slight adjustments needed to bring each shot closer to the target. If accomplished correctly, muscle memory should automatically bring the bow where it needs to go depending on the distance between the archer and the target.
8.2 String Walking:
Another technique that barebow archers use to aim is called "string walking'', where the fingers of the draw hand are moved up and down the string depending on the calculated distance between the archer and the target. If done properly, the archer always uses the tip of the arrow to aim by putting it dead center on the target, and the hand is moved up and down the string, depending on the distance, to change the angle of the bow.
To do this, the archer first must be using the three fingers under technique, and a special barebow finger tab or a shooting glove is recommended. The archer then calculates the distance between them and the target (if the distance is not already known) and moves their hand up or down the string, depending on the distance. This changes the actual angle that the bow is tilted, and puts more strain on the lower limb. Ensure that the bow is capable of withstanding this offset from a regular draw and if possible, adjust the tiller accordingly. The closer the target is, then the lower the hand should be on the string. A good way to keep consistency is to count the number of strands on the center serving that are between the top finger on the string and the bottom of the arrow nock and to remember the number of strands that should separate the finger and nock at different distances. (Ex: If a target is 10m away, there may be 15 strands between the top finger and the arrow nock. If a target is 15m away, there may be 10 strands between the top finger and the arrow nock with the same equipment and consistent shot cycle.)
The archer should take multiple shots and use tight groupings on the target to determine how much they move up and down the string. The hand should be in the desired position on the string at the set phase, before bringing the bow up and drawing it back. Next, the anchor point should be a consistent place near the mouth, usually touching the archer's ''K-9'' tooth. The string should be perfectly centered in front of the archer's eye when fully drawn back. Finally, the tip of the arrow should be in line with the string, and should be centered on the target regardless of the distance, as the different hand positions compensate.
9) Release: "Release with no mind, the arrow is fine..."
To release the string, the archer should totally relax the fingers of their draw hand, allowing the string to smoothly flow out of the fingers. Rather than the archer physically opening their fingers, the string should be allowed to push the fingers out of the way on its own, ideally leaving the fingers in virtually the same place after the release. For archers without a clicker, the release should happen when a mental signal of "readiness" is achieved. In other words, the archer must feel when it is time to release rather than actively focusing on the release.
For traditional archers, a common mental image is to imagine the timing of the release as
''ripe fruit dropping from the vine - when it is ready it just releases''.
10) Follow Through: ''Follow through, then admire your ten...''
This step can be described as a continuation of the release rather than a separate step. After the release, back tension needs to be controlled for a few moments. The follow through should be a natural reaction to releasing the arrow rather than a forced movement, and it is recommended to have a nice, long flowing release rather than a short one. The movement should be completely natural and not exaggerated.
The draw hand will be very relaxed and run alongside the face as the arm naturally moves behind the archer. The archer should visualize the bow moving straight at target, still pointing directly at the center to ensure that the arrow's flight is not disturbed on its way out of the riser. It is natural for the bow to move slightly left (for right handed archers) or right (for left handed archers), due to rotational expansion.
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Notes:
- When figuring out aiming it is important to maintain consistency between shots to create tight groupings. Especially for barebow archers, who do not use sights, it is important that the archer creates tight groupings, regardless of where on the target at first, before changing reference points for aiming. For example, if an archer shoots one arrow that is off center, it is unsure whether that arrow was off due to the wind, technique issues, or a bad reference point. If an archer shoots multiple arrows in the same area, then it is safer to assume that the only change required is a different reference point, which can be easily changed.
- KSL (NTS) training states that the archer must take responsibility for every shot they take, regardless of most outside factors. Distractions such as loud noises from spectators, actions of other archers, cameras, cell phones, etc. should not negatively affect the archer if proper focus is being achieved. Uncontrollable factors like wind speed and direction and distance should also not affect the shot too much and should be addressed if it troubles an archer too much.
- Breathing is important during the shot cycle and NTS has a method of doing it properly:
1) A deep diaphragmatic settling breath should be taken prior to raising the bow.
2) With the focus on the target a normal breath, using diaphragmatic breathing, is taken between Raising the Bow and Set-Up. This not only has a settling effect, but will also lower the center of gravity. Further, it will help the archer to increase their focus and aids in not rushing the draw.
3) Whilst drawing from Set-Up inhale as part of the drawing rhythm, which will create a natural feeling of gaining strength.
4) From the beginning of the Loading/Transfer to the Holding phase, when aiming should commence, approximately 30-50%the breath should be let out slowly and naturally, allowing the sight to naturally settle in the aiming area.
5) From this point the breath must be held till after the release and let out naturally during the follow-through.
- NTS steps for barebow, recurve, and compound are all similar, with only minor adjustments like grip and anchor points to cater to the specific style.
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